Lisa Shroyer, from Knitting Plus Hi, everyone! Very nice overview of techniques! The contents of this post first appeared in one of my weekly Studio Updates. You can find more info about Anne Marie and the services she offers here. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. which most of your sweater will be done. This will be the number of stitches in the last row before any decreases for ribbing. Great for those new to crochet! Thank you so much. In the final analysis, you may never come to love raglans, and thats okay. Overall the lack of structure particularly at the shoulders can make for a less durable sweater. To get from raglan depth to yoke depth, you need to add in one-half of the shoulder stitches. Determine how deep you want the front neck to be - desired front neck depth, This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. In Melissa Wherles Sigma Tee, she uses dropped stitches along the raglan sleeve shaping. Because all the stitches stay on the needle, there would be a large gap between stitches. Remember - what we're doing with short rows is leaving some stitches in the front unworked. Lets dive in and check out why you might want to try knitting a raglan style sweater! of the gauge without the interference of the selvage. Tell us, in the comments! Its a vertical measurement and you just apply your row gauge to the number of rows worked. The sleeve cap and body can be shaped at different rates or at the same rate; just remember that in most cases, the sleeve and body need to have the same number of rows or rounds between the armhole and the neck. I have the Banstead Pullover in my queue; the slightly ruched slip-stitch panel at the center front is such a neat element, and so flattering. Thank you! NOTE: The photos and methodology described in this post were both updated in August 2016. appropriate to the gauge you enter are needed. The shaping is all absolutely identical, and you can see that this would have zero effect on the back neck. Post your comments or questions here, or to get questions answered, interact with other knitters and find more free stuff, join my students group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/knittingclasses/If you haven't done so already, I hope you'll like my knitting classes page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/knittingclasses Im about to start knitting a top-down raglan sweater in the round with short rows in the back. Amy Herzog combines compound shaping with a seamed yoke, so that sleeves and body can be shaped independently of each othershe simply eases the pieces together as she seams, no matter how differently they curve. Personally Ive never seen a sweater design that suits everybody and that every crocheter or knitter adores wholeheartedly, without reservations. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. If the front neckline is shallow (like a crew neck), it may be pulled up into your neck. We dont reach our widest measurement until several inches below the underarm (and the larger you are, the truer that tends to be!). BTWmany of the Dovestone patterns are on my project list :). For the hips an a-line shape should work well. Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. The only difference between the two? The Slopes Pullover and Azure Lake Sweater feature circular-yoke shaping, decorated with seamless patterning. When I pick them up to begin my neck, those increase stitches look funny picked up and knitted. Finished bust measurement pre-wet blocking of 38.5 inches, and post blocking of 41 inches. I would not like to have to tear up the entire jacket. Why? If you have an odd number of stitches, the formula is: While continuing to follow raglan shaping and stitch pattern: Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. This sweater goes by formula (you will find percentages in parentheses), and up to the underarm is identical with my #4 Brooks and #8 Raglan models. For example, sleeve length can be easily extended or shortened simply by ceasing knitting at the desired point. If rows used in shaping is FEWER rows than you calculated, youll need to eliminate stitches more slowly. Yes, since you're measuring your body, but that won't have anything to do with the raglan length. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. You need room for your neck, or your sweater will ride up onto your neck and pull. By increasing evenly in all four sections of the sweater, you're creating raglans at a 45 angle to the neck . Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102, Add neck shaping to your raglan with short rows. If you havent already, take a minute to check out the other posts in this series. Before launching into your short rows, you will need to calculate the number of rows youll be following the pattern instructions before beginning your neck shaping. Great job and thank you for sharing! Front length: 19inch Back length: 20inch Bust: 41 inch (finished and wet blocked) Materials Do not round this number. Whats your favorite sweater style to knitraglan, set-in sleeves, dolman? I love the lace. Posted on 27 Sep 10:33. But you can also use this information to modify a pattern you're working from. try to match someone else's gauge. I was trying to figure out how to start and how to measure for different sizes because I am newbie in knitting. We arent shaped like that! You will need to mentally reckon with yourself that you will at some point have almost an entire sweater in your lap while you are still knitting with it, this will put more weight onto your hands and wrists. This method makes the pattern fit your gauge. ??? My reason for contacting you is just to let you know that the percentages for the Bonus tip: Our bust line isnt at the underarm. Its typical to leave a stitch on either side of the raglan shaping. Sign up here! In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. The front neck can be shaped with short rows or by binding off in the middle and working decreases on either side. For bonus points, reference a sweater you have and love that has the perfect crew neck. You can use cm - it all works the same. If there are just a few stitches at the shoulder, consider adding shaping for the back neck in addition to the shaping for the front neck. You can find more info about Anne Marie and the. Thanks again and do keep designing and sharing. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. The sleeve cap is a triangle that mirrors the shape of the armhole, with the top of the sleeve (the neck edge) measuring 0 to 4 (0 to 10 cm); plus sizes fit best with at least 1 (2.5 cm) remaining at the top of the sleeve. Round to an even number. Row 2 (WS): DS, work in pattern on WS to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. It can be US or mm sizes. Put a safety pin where you want the neckline to land. This is awesome! Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts, schematics, and waist shaping formula for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. 40% will create a rounder neckline, 55% will be more shallow. Have a full bust and tum? lol Lisas designs from Knitting Plus are lovely. This method of FBA can look kind of odd off a body because of how it changes the appearance of the raglan, but it looks just fine on. But you wouldn't solve this by working right back and forth across between the back raglans. You'll want to add no more than about 5/8" right beneath the collar, and if you need to make up extra length you can work some short rows in the middle of the back too. As long as that shoulder is around 2 wide, you should have adequate room in the back neck without adding extra shaping. The line you measure should be perpendicular to the floor, not at an angle to the middle of the neck (see illustration above). By determining desired stitch and row counts, and then determining the number of increases to make, you arrive at a sweater that fits perfectly. The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion Jean, I'm so happy to share what I know with others, and I'm glad you think this is useful! The final stitches are then cast-on across the underarm. This pattern includes photo tutorial to make it easy to follow. Measure the distance straight down from the shoulder seam to the level where you want the neckline to be, in a line parallel to the button placket. You're very welcome. The best feature of this method is that you don't need to change your needle size or yarn to And it addresses the difference between the stitch gauge and the row gauge which very rarely are equal. Pattern Highlight - Cinders Posted on 25 Aug 07:02, The Top-Down Cordage Pullover Posted on 30 May 10:50, A Unique Spring Top - Homa Posted on 29 Apr 07:10, There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! What about when I get to the next sleeve? When I made my first sweater from Jennifers book, Id never heard of compound raglans before. Beginning at the neck, the number of stitches on the front (s), back, and sleeves increase at regular intervals along these lines. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks. One of the disadvantages of sweaters constructed seamlessly is the lack of structure provided by seams. For each raglan seam I do one increase before and a different one after it. Ive struggled with them for longer than I should have, and am learning a lot! Or you can choose one of our designs, and get the pattern custom generated for your gauge and measurements. On the right-hand side, you can see the bracket enclosing the whole yoke depth, which is made up of the raglan depth and half of the shoulder width. up from around the armhole. Sara Dudek similarly acknowledged her appreciation of such sweaters when she dove deeply into design considerations for knitters and crocheters. Cant thank you enough for this detailed explanation and worksheet. In contrast, the raglan line on Lily Chins Floret Crochet Crop Top, with traditional shaping, forms a straight line. Here are four different ways to make raglan increases in knitting. I am so tired of looking for a pattern that I have in my head with yarn that doesnt seem to match any of their gauges! stitch for your test piece, you will have to mentally substitute the name of your pattern stitch With all of this in mind lets take a look at the increasingly popular raglan style sweater. Divide the number of shoulder stitches by the stitches per inch from your gauge. If you make sure your neck increases are a few stitches in from the edge this will give you a clean line of stitches to pick up from. The shaping for your raglan will fit best if you mirror this S shape - also called compound shaping. Work decreases more closely at the top and bottom, and less frequently in the middle of the raglan line. The body and sleeves can be worked separately in pieces that are seamed together or the body and sleeves can be worked in the round to the armholes, then joined and worked in a single piece to the neck. casting on about 25 stitches and working about 25 rows. If you are accustomed to A sporty bit of knitwear that can take on many personalitiesfeminine and lacey, structured and austere, simple and chunky, or refined and fitted. Start here! Short rows cannot accommodate long straight vertical lines. If you notice a garment has a funnel shape, thats coming from the shaping rate in the raglan (or if working a round yoke, in the yoke chart). Hello, thanks for your interesting explanation. In contrast to yoke depth, which is the total depth of the top part of the sweater, raglan depth is simply the rows you work from the cast-on to the underarm. For some women, the knitted sweater construction can result in sleeves appearing too short and too tight, and can create discomfort at the underarm and armhole. Because raglan shaping produces such a clear diagonal line on the front and back of the garment, the increases used to add width are often decorative. It is really helpful! I am narrower at the shoulder and wider in the body and hip area. body or the arm length. This can mean that you will be limited to yarn choices that include some structure and elasticity themselves, such as wool or wool blends, and plied yarn. A child's proportions About the type of fit. adventurous. I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. Knitting In the Round 3 Ways: DPNs, Two Circulars, or Magic Loop? These steps assume you create a crew neck a shallow, round neckline. The 2 wider cones become the garments front and back, while the narrower cones form sleeves. If you do a few calculations, you can adjust for yourself, in the same way, to fit a pattern exactly to your body shape. Svalbard by Bristol Ivy It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. Add a few extra raglan increases after you've split for the arms and body. The waist shaping formula is exactly the same as above. If youve got pattern work near the neck, you can even put those short rows lower down the back as well. Regards, Sarah. Or be a bit Interestingly, in the Crimean War Baron Raglan fought alongside British Army General James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, after whom the cardigan sweater is named! Both sweaters are for my kiddos. NOTE: The photos and methodology described in this post were both updated in August 2016. Now that weve checked out some of the benefits of this construction method, lets look at some drawbacks. When you are creating your raglan seam, you can use any type of increase that you wish. I love hearing what you have to say! Use tab to navigate through the menu items. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. I added red lines to make these changes easier to see (and to make Euclid cry). If the pattern has you decrease evenly between the bicep and the neck, add your new decreases at the top and bottom. Short rows cant accommodate long vertical lines because all the stitches stay live on the needle. If youre not a raglan-lover, decide whether your lack of affection stems from this sweaters armhole shaping and how it works for your unique figure, or if you simply need to tweak fit as you make your raglans. With adding these instructions I will be able to knit easy Things that fits well.Dorothee. Thanks for your advice CarolI will experiment a little with spacing out my raglan increases. Typically patterns suggest a Backwards Loop Cast-On. This is the shoulder width, and from the top of the shoulder, half the width will fall the front and half to the back. Without this shaping, the collar will be pulled to the back. The extended sleeve cap, which matches the yoke in depth and number of rows, has a diagonal tension (a line of stress in the fabric) that cuts across the outer arm and shoulder and can be uncomfortable for women with larger upper arms or broad shoulders. (Not that I expect special treatment for my giant head children) Bottoms Up Raglan is presented in one size only for now. I have been using Excel for years to ensure I understand the pattern and to create a clear, clean pattern customized just for me! Yours is a major contribution and I would like to applaud you. Its very rare that a raglan wont need front neck shaping - the shoulder width needs to be about six inches wide for that to work. (8 sts inc at raglans, 2 at front neck, per inc row) The compound raglan allows for a more flattering fit because the rate of increase varies to more accurately follow the shape of the body. This creates a wider or narrower seam along the raglan. The raglan line curves more at top than in the middle on this garment, shown most clearly when I laid an improvised straightedge next to the line. Everything after that is finessing. The sleeves are worked from the top down starting with stitches picked This decorative seam continues down into the a-line body and forms the focus of interest for the sweater. This is the final post of our series. If a raglan is worked with plenty of positive ease, however, these problems are alleviated. If this is your first sweater I recommend starting with the Tilda pattern. Its comfy and the style is flattering, if I do say so myself. These diagonal seams are created by regular decreases that gradually taper the yoke from the underarm width to the neck width. If you want to join me virtually for a 12-week knitting adventure as we mastergarment fit and modification, then my signature masterclass is waiting for you here. A raglan is a shoulder construction where the sleeves come all the way up to the neck. Ysolda Teague explains how she calculated her compound raglan yoke for Stripy, a multi-part tutorial on fit. The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest For a crew neck, were looking at a shallow neckline, just enough to create room for your neck. that which is calculated by this method. Hello Carol, This is so helpful. That area - the underarm to the neck - is called the yoke. If all of this is still sounding a bit much to take on by yourself, Im always adding patterns to my Teachable Workshops. You can change the way increases look by adjusting the number of knit stitches between them. Am enjoying your Craftsy class on short rows. Lets call this C. If you have an even number of stitches, simply divide bottom neck stitches by two. Tip: Not sure how youd like your neckline to look? The Audubon Shrug is truly special. Heres Interweave Knits Editor and Knitting Plus author, Lisa Shroyer, to tell you more about raglan construction and how it works for plus-size knitting. The bottom up method is generally seamed together but the seaming is actually very simple because each area to be seamed is a straight line rather than the curved line of a traditional set in sleeve. sweater neck do not work on children with large heads! About the needle size. 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. its accuracy or the outcome of its use. When you have finished the raglan yoke increases, you still need to join the body together. If you're a designer and you're doing this and you want to help me understand what your goal was, please do write back! A raglan has a true yoke, often worked in one piece, and is particularly suited to working in the round. Now compare the raglan sweaters geometry to the bodys geometry. In this video we learn how to use a formula to easily calculate shaping in knitting. Hey, I just came across this while making a search on raglan. The style of these "lines" can be different depending on the design, but here are some examples of what it looks like this: Arlo & Alice baby/child cardigan are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. As an extra special bonus from baa ram ewe, youll also get a discount code for 10% off their Dovestone DK yarn for the same time period. I have one question, is there any way to amend a lower armhole in a top-down ranglan sweater when you have finished the sweater? When Lisa Shroyer discussed armholes that do and dont work for knitters, she noted the figure attributes that can get in the way of raglan love. The raglan sleeve is a popular choice for casual knitting projects. PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! Ready to see what Kniterator can do for you? In comparison to a sweater that is knit in small pieces and seamed together the one big piece may feel more cumbersome to work with as it grows into a sweater. Thanks so much for sharing you work, I really appreciate it!!! When you knit a raglan the traditional top-down way ( as detailed in my tutorial ), what you're making for the yoke is a flat rectangle with a hole in the middle for your head and mitered corners, which are the raglan "seams.". Swap a round crew for a v-neck by choosing a deeper neckline and binding off just 3 sts at the bottom. Every round neck starts with a flat bottom. To illustrate this, here are two swatches, both worked with the exact same shaping rate as suggested above. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Such a huge mystery for meSOLVED! Yet not all crocheters and knitters embrace the raglan as we have done. Whichever unit you use, be sure not to round. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. These workshops are designed to be there every step of the way as you work on your chosen project. When the raglan increases end early and there are many rows of straight knitting before getting to the point where the stitches are added for the underarm join, I have found that the finished sweater doesnt always lay flat just in the upper chest and back. This blog post from Amy Herzog is a fantastic resource for different neckline shapes and the shaping rates that create them. This is the number of inches youll need to lower the front neck to create your dream neckline. When working a raglan sweater pattern, each piece can be worked bottom-up or top-down. The raglan sweater can be knit either top down or bottom up. for kids and adults. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. raglans darts button hole placement skirt flares bias knitting gathered sleeves circular yokes If you need to increase (or decrease) a specific number of stitches within a specific number of rows there is a reliable way to calculate this. Any ideas for a neat front neck increase? You will also need to have stitch holders Knit the stitch as normal. A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. I debated changing the Raglan increases because I generally prefer to have the increase line extend all the way down below the armpit. For a crew neck, youll want to use two shaping rates to eliminate stitches, so that youre getting rid of stitches faster at the bottom of the neckline. With certain yarns, the sweater may twist on you over time, having been knitted in a spiral, which is what in the round technically ends up being. Raglan: [biographical name] 1st Baron 1788-1855 FitzRoy James Henry Somerset British field marshal. It is not a sophisticated method. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. Please note: Raglans have no shoulder seam; the expanding sleeve cap becomes the shoulder of the garment. Thank you for the information it is very helpful. You start with full raglan increases and then move on to alternating body only rows with full raglan increases so that everything fits right at the bottom of the yoke. At the underarm, a few stitches are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. Every raglan seam should have the same 2 increases worked for each one as that way you are going to have the same seamline at each point. So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other or if you are a beginner this pattern may not meet all your needs. Most body shapes dont increase the size of their upper arms as fast as the bust size increases. This means that for larger bust sizes using traditional construction, the sleeves will be too large. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. You may prefer (or need) the body or arms of the sweater to be longer than You can find themhere.Dusty Road and Santa Rosa Plum are both from last summer, and Im still in love with them both :-).
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